Method and apparatus for making footwear



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1,663,460 F. J. MacDoNALD METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING FOOTWEAR Filed sept. 19. 1924 '7 sheets-sheet e 'lf 9 x Z0 20 .nul um n AMEL im fu mmmmmh Patented Mar. 20, 1928.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRANK J. MACDONALD, OF AKRON, OHIO, ASSIGNOR TO THE B. F. GOODRICH COMPANY, 0F NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING FOOTWEAR.

Application filed September 18, 1924. Serial No. 738,378.

This invention relates to the manufacture of footwear and more particularly .to methods and apparatus for incorporatlng pieces of stock such as heel pieces or counters. While the machine shown in the accompanying drawings is primarily designed for incorporating the piece of stock commonly called the cloth heel, in the building of rubber footwear, the invention in some of its features is applicable to leather footwear and to shoe parts other than the clot-h heel.

My object is to provide improved. procedure and improved, largely automatic apparatus, adapted for rapid, accurate and economical production.

Of the accompanying drawings:

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of a machine embodying and adapted to carry out my invention in its preferred form, a part being broken away, and the machine being shown in its initial stage of operation.

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the same, from thc right of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a vertical section of the same, on line 3 3 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a. perspective view of the linished work.

Fig. is a horizontal section on line 5 5 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 6 is a front. elevation of arts of the machine at the initial stage o operation, parts being sectioned and broken away,

Fig. 7 is a section on line 7 7 of Fig. 6.

Fig. 3 is a front elevation of the parts of the machine shown in Fig. 6, but at a later stage of operation.

Fig. 9 is a vertical section of part of the machine, taken on line 9 9 of Fig. 8, and showing a still later stage of operation than that of Fig. 8.

underlying shoe parts progressively, in opposite directions from the middle line of the heel, the heel-piece-supporting means being adapted to maintain a pull upon the ends of the heel piece while relinquishing the support of its middle portion to permit it to be flexed into conformity with the last by movement of the latter; means for folding the sole margin of the heel piece onto the sole face of the last; and means for pressing the folded margin of the heel piece to compact it against the sole face of the last.

It will be understood that the heel piece is applied to the last after other inner shoe parts, such as the lining'12 and the insole 13, Fig. 4, have been applied, and for brevity the word last will be used hereinafter as including a last having such parts in place upon it, as well as a bare last.

Last 'W'zcm'pulatfng mechanism.

A tionary guideeposts 20 is a stop-collar 24 and a pair of journal brackets 25, 25 for a set of grooved pulleys 26, 26, over which a cable 27 passes from an anchorage 28 on the slide 21 to a counterweight 29 provided with a guide pin 29u sliding in a bracket 29b formed on the standard 15 or 16 and provided with a stop pad 29C for the counterweight, the two counterweights being adapted to avoid excessive power requirement in any part of the upward and downward movement of the slide. A pitman 30, for eecting such movement, is provided at its upper end with a cross-pin 31 projecting through vertical slots 32, 32, formed in ears 33, 33 which are integral with the slide 21, the pitman thus having a lost-motion connection with the slide.

The lower end of the pitman 30 is pivoted to a crank 34 secured upon a shaft 35 journaled in. a part of the standard 16 and having scoured on its outer end a mutilated gear 3G having a tooth omitted et opposite sides to permit it to be driven through timed half-revolutions by a mutilated 37 'formed with two sets ot teeth so spaced apart as to permit a substantial dwell oit the slide 2l in its lowermostposition, and as to be in unmeslied relation, as is clearly ehown in Fig. il, when the gear 87 is stopped between successive tull revolutions thereof, so that slight over-running oit the gear 37 may not al'lect the :starting position ot the pitnian 3l) and its projecting cross-pin lli., which latter adapted to actuate certain 'am member-s, hereinafter described, duri og the take-up oil the lost motion between the pitman 30 and the slide 2l,

The gear 37 is secured upon a shaft 138 journaled in the standards l5, 'lo and having secured thereon a cam drum il!) and a gear 40, the latter being meshed with a gear lll secured on a hollow shaitt l2 journaled in the standard l5 and having secured on its other end a brake drum le formed with a jaw-clutch hub 44, 4the latter being adapted to mate with a jaw-clutch member secured upon a shaft d6 slifflably and rotatably mounted in the standard .1 6 and in the axial aperture oit the hollow shaft e2, said shatt i6 being` provided with a belt pulley ,t7 by which it may be continuously driven Yfrom a si'iitablc source ol power.

il, shipper lever i8 for the clutch member 45 is secured upon a shaft et?) provided with a toot lever 5() adapted to act against a pull spring 5l to engage the clutch, and said shipper lever iti is termed integrally with a brake lover 52 and a brake shoe 53 thereon adapted io act ao'aineli the brake drum 123, under the 'torce or' the spring 5l, when the clutch is disengaged, to prer'enl. overrunv ning olAl the n'1echanis.-;m.

For holding the clutch engaged through a cycle o'lE operations, unlesa sooner eleatml by the operator, a latch lever 5e ie 'termed iiitegrally with the shipper lever alli, and a latch 55 (Fig. Il), adapted lo hold the shipper lever in clulrh-engaging position, is cured to a. shatt 5G provided with a toot lever 57 for willulrawi he latch at the will of the operator, sain 1 5G aleo bei g' provided willi a caui-lever :,ulapted to be engaged. by a dog on the uam drum 2li) at the end olf each revolution oit the shaft Btl, to withdraw the latch, against the torce o't a pull spring 58 (llig. 3) coi'uiecting vthe lever with a, part oit the machine Ytrame and urging the latch toward its latehiug position. d

rllhe mechanism described is lhue adapted, upon beingl .slarled by depression ont the itootlever 50, to lower the slide E21, hold it in its lowermoet position :tor a time, and then return `it to its uppermost position, the brake shoe 53 preventing over-ruiuiiug ot the gear inea/leo 37, A three-armed pawl lever 60, pivoted at 6l on the standard 16, is adapted to engage and disengage the gear 36, said pawl lever being under the control of a pull spring 62 opposed by cams G3, 64 formedfonthe gear 37 and adapted to engage the actuating arm oli' said pawldever. The pawl lever is thus adapted to hold the pitman 3() accurately in its uppermost and lowermost positions and to assure the proper remeshing of the gears 36, 37.

The slide 2l is formed at its rear with vertically spaced-apart webs 64, G5, formed respectively with vertically aligned guide apertures in which is slidably mounted a bar 66 urged downward by a compression spring 67 encircling the bar and interposed between the upper web G5 and a collar 68 secured upon the bar and adapted to abut the lower web G4 to limit the bars downward movenient with relation to the slide. The lower end olf said bar projects below the lower web G4 and is adapted to be engaged by the upper end of the pitman 30 to raise the bar with relation to the slide in the takeup of the pitmans lost motion with rela tion to the slide in the upper portion of the pitnians range ot movement, said bar being adapted to be slid downward with relation to the slide, by the spring (37, as soon as the pitman again begins to descend.

The counterweights 29, when used, are preferably adapted to be stopped by the pads 29 before the slide 2l abuts the stop collars 2e, to avoid jar, the spring G7 being suliciently strong to complete the upward movement ot the slide. lVliile the counterweights preferably are used, to avoid nonuni'lorm power requirement, my invention is not limited thereto.

Secured upon the upper end of the bar GG is an arm 69 formed at one end as a clamp to lit the bar 6G and provided with a screw having a handle 7() for adjustably clamping .it upon the bar. At an intermediate part 7l the arm G9 is termed to tit between vertical guides 7 2, 72 formed on the slide 2l, for sliding movement of the arm (39 in the take-up oit Vlost motion between the pitman 3() and the slide 2l.

To the grooved lower tace of the outer end of the arm 69 adjustably secured, by a thumb-screw 73, mounted in a slot 73 'termed in said arm, (Fig. 3), a toe-rest 74: formed, as shown, to embrace the toe ot the last, l1. F or holding the last up against d toerest a pair of hars 75, "5 are pivoted upon a pin 82 mounted in the arm 69 and extend downwarilly from the arm and are connected near their lower ends by a stop member 7 6 for sleeves 77, 77 slidably mounted upon the lower ends of said bars respectively and having pivotally mounted loetween them, upon a pin 78, l), a plate 75l, 'from the Afront tace of which projects a Ril pin 80 adapted to enter a hole in the cone of the last to hold the latter against the toerest 74 under the force of pull-springs 81, 81 connecting projecting ends ott the plates pivot pin 78 with the respective arms 22 of the slide 21 at positions nearer the rear of the machine than the pivot pin 82 of the bars 75, so as to urge said bars about their pivots, toward the slide 21, as well as to urge the sleeves 77 upward on said bars. Screwed into the rear tace of the plate 79 is a stud 792L adapted to abut the vertical front face of the slide 21 to position the plate 79, and a plate 83 of appropriate thickness is detachably secured to the front face of the plate 7 9, by studs 83n in slots 83 formed in the plate 79 (Fig. 3), to position the last. Plates 83 of different thickness may be used for lasts of different sizes.

Heel-piece fiizaflzipulat/f/ig' devices.

The slide 21 is integrally formed at its lower end with a forwardly projecting portion 84 formed with a large opening 85 to permit the passage of a stock-pressing device hereinafter described, and hinged to the forward edge of said portion 84 a drop-shelf 86 adapted to support the middle portion ot the heel piece when held in horizontal position, said drop-shelf being adapted to be held in horizontal position by a. push-link 87 connecting an ear 88, formed on t-he under side of said drop-shelf, with a cam lever 89 (see Fig. 7) pivoted to an ear 90 formed on the lower tace of the slide 21, said cam-arm being adapted to raise the drop-shelf, under the action of a cam roller 911L mounted upon the projecting end of the pitmans cross-pin 31, the pitman 30 moves upward with relation to the slide 21, and to permit the shelf to drop in the reverse movement, a pull spring 91 being interposed operatively be- 't veen the ear 90 formed on the slide 21 and the ear 88 formed on the drop-shelf 8f to assure the dropping of the shelf.

The cam-lever 89 is formed with a cam face 89L and with a slot 92 in which is mounted a slide-block secured by rivets 93, 93 between rectangular plates, the nearer one of which is shown at 94, said plates being on opposite faces ot said lever, with their left-hand edges flush with that ot' the lever, and one of said plates is connected by a pull spring with the pivot pin at the outer end of the lever 89. Said plates are thus adapted to be held in their lowermost position with their vertical lett hand edges constituting in eii'ect a continuation of the vertical left-hand edge of the cam lever, so to support the drop-sheliE in horizontal position as the cam roller 91,n moves downward to the lower extremity of said plates, and then to permit the drop-sheltl to tall suddenly. In the return movement oit the cam roller 91, however, the plates 94 are adapted to be lifted by the roller, against the force of the spring 95, to permit the roller 91, acting against the sloping cam face 89a ot the cam lever 89, to lift the drop-shelf back to horizontal position, the plates snapping back to their lower position as soon as the cam rolleil 4Apasses from their bottom edge tacos and the 'tace 89d of the cam lever.

For holding the end portions ot' the heel piece 10 and applying them to the last, a pair of two-armed stock-pulling levers 96, 90 are pivoted at 97, 97 upon respect-ive brackets formed upon the inner faces of the standards 15, 16. The downwardly extending arms ot said levers are connected by a pull spring V98 and the upwardly extending arm ot' each lever, provided with stock-gripping means about-*to be described, is connected by a pull spring 99 with a cross-brace 100 connecting a pair of rods 101, 101, which project downward from the slide 21, the anchorage points ot the springs 99 beingl such that when the slide 21 is in its uppermost position, as in Fig. 0, the springs 99 will be relaxed, so that the upper arms of the levers 9G will be held widely spaced apart by the lower spring 98, the middle portion of the latter being adapted to catch upon a dog 98L projecting from a cross-bar 110 mounted upon the rods 101, as shown in F ig. (i, when the slide 21 rises. The arrangement as described is such that as the slide 21 approaches its lowermost posit-ion, as in Fig. 8, the pull ot the springs 99 and of the heel piece 10 will cause an elongation of the spring 98 and swing the upper arms of the levers toward each other, to apply the heel piece to the sides of the last, the dog 98'lL at this time, as it moves downward with the slide 21, permitting the spring 98 to straighten and thus relax, so as not to oppose so strongly the pull ot the springs The upper end of each stock-pulling lover 96 is tormed with a tlat stock-receiving head 102 on which is journaled, at its inner edge, a stock-pressing roller 103 having its periphery flush with and in effect constituting a continuation ot its stock-receiving face, one of the journals ot the roller projecting beyond its bearing, as shown clearly in Fig. 5, and being adapted to be engaged, in the upward movement of the slide 21, by a cam 104, for suitably spacing apart the heads 102 to receive the next heel piece 10. Each 'of the cams 10i-t is termed on a lever 105 secured upon a rock-shaft 10G mounted in brackets formed on the rear ot' the slide 21, and provided with a rock-lever 107, Fig. 7, adapted to be engaged by a cam roller mounted back of the similar cam roller 91n upon the projecting portion ot the cross-pin 31 ot the pitman B0. to litt the levers 105 with relation to the slide 21 during the take up ot lost motion in the last part of the pitmans ascending stroke, and to permit the levers 105 llIS to drop with relation to the slide during the first parl'. ot the pitinans descending stroke.

For clamping the ends ol the heel piece l() against the heads 102 ot the levers 9G, a clamping jaw 108 is hinged upon each oit the heads at provided with a hinge spring 11() urjgjing it toward clamping position, and termed at one end with a lever 111 adapted to be engaged by a dog` 11i/l formed on the adjacent lever 105 to li't't the clamping jaw 105 trom the head 102, to permit the latter to receive the heel piece 10, when the slide Q1 hasI arrived in its uppermost position, the levers 105 being adapted, in their downward movement by gravity in the lirst part ot the descending stroke ot the pitman 30, to permit the hinge-springs 1i() to close the clamping jaws 1055 upon the heel piece betere the drop-shelt ti is lowered, The heads 1112 may each he provided with gauge markings 113, 113 upon gauge projet-.tions 1153, 1133"' to 'facilitate the positionA ing ot the heel piece, and each oit them is preferably l'ormed, adjacent the roller 1UP, with a groove 102 (Fig. adapted to mate with a rounded rib 1013? Yl'ornied on the jaw 108, to provide a strong, sliding grip upon the heel piece. The trent journal brackets, 131), o'E 'the rollers 103 are adapted to serve as gauges tor the heel piece at the trent side ol: the latter. (See Fig. 5.)

'lhe devices as desrriljied are adapted to receive the heel piece 10, clamp its ends and pull them around the heel ot the last, and press them against the latter, the slide Q1, with the last thereon, then strapping in a determinate position.

fr device is provided 'tor applying rolling` pressure to the heel piece progressively 'from near the sole toward the shank ot the last as the latter approaches its lon'erniost position. Said device comprises a "ll-shaped bar Vlill pivoted al 115') (Fig. 1)) upon a cross-bar V1113,Y above mentioned. which slidably mounted upon the rods 101 which project downwai-diy :from the slide ill. Said crossbar llo is urged downwardly on said liars, toward at incollare 117, 11T secured thereon, by pull strings 11S connecting said cross-bar with the loner ends ot said rods. A pull spring 11S) connecting an intermediate part ot' the "lirhaped bar lift with the cross-liar 11G is adapted to urge said bar 1111, with a light force, toward the 'trout et the inachine. about its pivot 115. Pivoted upon each end ot the "t'h i the bar '1l/l is a curved arm 19t), (see Fi t3 and tl), the upper ends ot the two arms 12() being connected by a tlexiblc elaahaped :nilo menilirr 121, (Fig. 9) upon which is rotatably mounted a helical spring 12;) and a rubber sleeve 123 embracing said spring, the sleeve and spring being adapted to rotate, upon the curved axle member, so as to roll upon the noname heel piece 10. from adjacent the sole toward the shank or' the last. The 'T-shaped bar-11f1 is so toi-ined with an angle and its pivot 115 is so positioned with relation to the lastV as to result in such rolling movement of the structure, tovard the shank oit the last, as the last forced downward against it, the bar 114 turning about its pivot 115 under the crowding torce ot the work against the sleeve 123, which overcomes the force of the spring 119, the cross-bar 116 being adapted to be stopped in its downward movement by a dog 12/-1 secured upon a fixed shaft 125 connecting the brackets 18, and the roller structure being adapted to be projected through the, opening 85 o't the projection 84 ot the slide 21 as the slide and the last con tinue to move downward after the cross-bar 11o has been stopped by said dog. The arms 12() are adapted normally to rest against the walls ol' the opening S5 in the projection 84 oi? the slide 21, under the spring action of the axle meniber 121, but to swing toward eachr other under the 'torce of the last against the flexible roller structure, to bring the legs ot the latter against the work, and thus to contorni the 'flexible roller structure to the contour ot' the work. The front, bar portion ol the projection 841, abutted by the arms lill), is adapted to serve as a stop for the bar liet, in ollposi'tion to the spring 119.

Sole mow/a fold/ag md pressing flee/ieee.

The mechanism for folding and pressing the margin of the heel piece onto the sole tace ot the lastcomprises an arch 126 1 and 9) secured to, and spanning the spaceV between, the standards 15, 1G, said arch being adapted to be secured at different elevations and at different angles, :tor di t- Yferent sizes or types ot lasts, by bolts 127 mounted in vertical slots 12S (Fig. 2) formed in said standards. Secured to the under tace of said arch is a member 129 toi-med with a central guide-sleeve portion 13() for the stein ot a headed plunger 181, pre1"- erably having a rubber facing 131, and at the end ot' said guide-sleeve portion which is nearest the work said member 129 is termed with a portion 132 having a periphery shaped lilre that ot' the heel ot the shoe. but larger, and about the curved portion ot' said periphery is interrupted at intervals by slots such as the one shown at 133 in lfig. S). 1n each ot said slots is adjustabljT mounted a slide 1332', to which is pivoted a bell-crank lever having a long arm extending toward the work and hai/'ing pivoted to its extremity at- 135n a pair of roughly triangular roller-carrying plates, extending back along the arm of the bell-crank lever, the nearer plate ot one pair being shown at- 135 in Figs. 3 and 9. The outermost corners of each pair of plates are connected with the short arm ot the bellcrank lll) lill

lever 134 by a pull-spring 136 adapted to urge the plates about their pivots 135d toward the work. A stop-pin 137 connects the plates and is adapted to abut the lone; arm of the bell-crank lever to limit such movement. The plates are formed with parallel, linger-like extensions at their inner corners, remote from their pivots, and between each pair of said extensions is journaled a roller 138, the roller-supporting mechanism just described being such that, with the long arm of each bell-crank lever in its position farthest from the work, as in Fig. 3, the series of rollers, in openedout, U-like arrangement, vwill be adapted to receive the heel of the last between them, and then, as the long arms of the bell-crank levers are swung toward the work, to press the heel piece yieldingly against the last, the rollers running thereon toward the sole of the last, as their springs 136 permit the plates 135 to turn about their pivots 1352 until the rollers pass the junction of the side face with the sole face of the last, which time the springs 136 cause them roll onto the sole face of the last, folding,` over the margin of the heel piece and pressing it against the sole face under the force of said springs, as in Fig. 9.

For so swinging inward the long arms of: the bell-crank levers, and then to return them outward to clear the sole face of the last for the action of the plunger 131, the short arms of the bell-crank levers are con! nected by respective clevis-bolts 139 with a slide 140, of appropriate U-form as to periphery, said slide being mounted upon the guide-sleeve portion 130 of the member 129. The slide 140 is pivoted between two parallel, upwardly-extending arms 141, 141 of a broad lever fulcrumed on a shaft 142 rotatably mounted in the standards 15, 16, said lever having:rr a downwardly extending arm 143 provided at its lower end with a cam roller 144 mounted in a cam groove formed in the cam drum 39.

For actuating the plunger 131 to press the sole margin of the heel piece strongly against the last after it has been folded over, as described, by the rollers 138, the outer end of the stem of said plunger, projecting from its guide-sleeve 130, has pivoted thereto by a clevis-pin 146 a yoke 14", the ends of the latter being pivoted respectively to the upper ends of two parallel lever-arms 148, 149 secured to the shaft 142, the leverarin 149 being formed integrally with a downwardly extending arm 150 having its lower end connected by a piston-rod 151 with a piston mounted in a one way, quickacting cylinder 152 secured to the frame of the machine, said cylinder being adapted to actuate the plunger 131 as a hammer, so as Vto provide a very effective compact-ing of the folded margin of the heel piece against the insole of the shoe. Said piston is adapted to be charged and exhausted through a pipe 153 provided with a threeway valve 154 having an exhaust pipe 155, the control lever, 156, of said valve being normally held in cylinder-exhausting position by a pull spring 157 connecting it with a part of the machine frame, and said control lever is adapted to be moved int-o cylindereharging position, momentarily during eat-h cycle of operation, by a push-link 158 connecting it with one arm of a cam lever 159, the other arm of said lever being adapted to be engaged by a cam 160 on the cam drum 39. A pull spring 161 (Fig. 3) connects the lever 150 with the base bracket of the cylinder 152, for effecting the reverse moveinent of the piston when the cylinder is discharged, and so withdrawing the plunger 131 from the work.

Operar/0a.

In the operation of the machine, the various parts thereof being in starting position as in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, and the shaft 46 being continuously driven, the heel piece 10 is manually placed upon its support comprising the projection 84 of the slide 21, the drop-shelf 110 and the heads 102 of the .levers 96, and the last 11, having inner shoe parts such as the lining 12 and insole 13 thereon, is manually mounted upon the-pin 8O and permitted to be held up against the toe-rest 74 by the springs 81.

The operator then depresses the foot lever 50, thereby throwing in the clutch 44, 45, th latter being automatically held in engagement by the latch during one revolution of the shaft 38 and cam drum 39 thereon, and then disengaged by the action of the dog 59 on said cam drum.

During such single revolution of the shaft 38 the crank 34 isV driven in two successive half revolutions, timed by the action of the mutilated gears 36, 37. In the first partof the downward, first half-revolution of said crank, while the slide is held in its uppermost position by the spring 67 and counterweights 29, the lost motion between the slide .21 and the pitinan 30 is taken up, permitting the spring 67 to extend itself and force the last downward onto the heel piece, 10, engaging the latter where it rests Aupon the projection 84 of the slide 21, the toe-rest arm 69 preferably being secured in such position upon the bar 66, for the particular size of shoe, that the stop-collar 68 will prevent excessive pressure of the work against said projection 84. Such take-up of lost motion permits the jaws 198 to close upon the heel piece as the roller on the pin 31 permits the levers 107 and consequently the levers 105 to fall., and also permits the drop-shelf 86 to fall from thel heel piece as the roller 91 on said pin passes from the vertical edges of the plates 94and thus permits the spring 91 (see Fig. 7) to contract.

Further downward movement ot the crank 34 then lowers the entire structure carried by the slide 21, the heel piece being folded about the heel ot the last by the action of the levers 06 and pressed against the last by the rollers 103.

Near the end ot this dowiiward movement the last encounters the rolling device 121, 122, 123, as the supporting cross-bar, 116, ot the latter, is stopped by the dog .124, said rolling device then being caused to ioll,'on its curved axle member, toward the shank of the last, against the force oit' thespring 119, by the pressure of the lastagainst said device, to compact the heel piece .against the last.

When the slide 21 is stopped inits lowermost position, the rollers 136 are closed in and then withdrawn outwardly again by the action ot the lever 143 as above described, to told over the sole margin of the heel piece, and immediately thereafter the plunger 131 is actuated and withdrawn by the action of the lever 150 as above described, to compact said margin against the last, the slides 21 remaining` in its lowermost position for these operations while thegear 87 is out of mesh with the gear 66.

In the second or upward half ot the revolution of the crank 3st. the springs 118, 119 cause the heel rolling device 121, 122, 123 to withdraw downward and forwardwith relation to the slide 21 as the slide rises from the dog 124i, and as the slide is stopped by the collars 24 in its uppermost position` and the lost motion of the pitman is taken up the last is lifted with relation to the slide, against the force of t-he spring 67. At the same time the cross-pin 31 ot' the pitman causes the drop-shelf 86 to beraised and the levers 105 to rise, to open the gripper `jaws 108, and by contact of their cams 104 with the journals of the rollers 103, to position the heads 102 to receive the next heel piece. The finished work is then removed from the machine and the operation as `described is repeated.

In adjusting the last holding devices tor lasts ot' a` new size, the slide 21 is raised to the top of its stroke, a plate'83 ot' appropriate thickness is mounted upon the plate 79, and the new last is interposed between the pin 80, and the toe rest 74. The toe-rest arm 69 is then loosened on the bar 66, permitting the last to rest lightly upon a heel piece 10 supported on the projection 84 of the slide 21. The machine is then driven untilthe lost motion ot' the pitinan is taken up, permitting the spring 67 to forcethe stopcollar 68 against. the lower web, 64, the bar 66 slidingr in the clamping portion of the toeerest arm 69. `The clamp is then retightened, by means ot the handle 70, so that successive lasts ot the same size will take only a Vpart oli' the torce of the spring 67 as they are brought against the projection 8l in the take-up oi lost motion.

Adjustment of the last support to determine the width of heel-piece margin to be lolded over onto the sole face ot the last is had by adjustment of the screw-stud 7 9"', and adjustment of the angle of the last, to assure that the plunger 131 will press the tolded margin as eli'ectively adjacent the instep as it does at the rear o'l the heel, is had by setting the toe-rest 74- at different positions on the arm 69, by means of the thumb-screw 73 in the slot 73a.

The sole-margin rolling devices do not ordinarily require special adjustment for dit- :terent sized lasts, but to assure theirproper cooperation with each other they may be individually adjusted by adjusting the slides 133e, upon which they are fulcrumed, in the slots 133.

My invention is susceptible ot various modifications within its scope..and l do not wholly limitmy claims to the specific construction shown or the exact procedure described.

I claim:

1. The method of making footwear which comprises bringing a piece of sheet stock and a last together, by determinate relative movement Yfrom determinate, isolated positions, progressively `applying the stock to the last bygiving it oit against t-he same by slippage of the stock from gripping members moved, relatively, along the tace of the last, and pro gressively pressing the stock againstthe last concurrently withits progressive application thereto.

2. `The method of applying a heel piece to a last which comprises bringing the heel pieceand the last together by determinate relative movement from determinate, isolated positions, applying the heel piece to thelast progressively in opposite directions from the `middle ot the heel by determinate relative movement of the two, and folding inward the sole margin oit' the heel piece toward the sole 'tace of the last simultaneously at substantially all points throughout its length.

3. The inethod ot applying an upper shoe partto a last which comprises sticking the shoe part to the lastwith a margin thereof extending past the sole face ot the last, supporting the last in a determinate position with the shoe part thus mounted thereon, folding inward the said margin toward the sole face of the last while the latter supported in said position, and, while the last remains in said position, pressing against the last simultaneously the entire area of the folded margin by presenting pressing means thereto by movement substantially normal to the sole of the last.

ist.)

4. Apparatus lor making tootwear, said apparatus comprising means for bringing a piece otshoe stock and a last together by determinate relative movement from isolated positions and progressively applying the stock to the last, said means coinlnfising a gripper having movement along the face ot the last and adapted to give otf the stock to the last by slippage ot the stock 'from between its gripping members and locally aeting means associated with the gripper and adapted therewith relatively to travel over the face ot' the work for pressing the stock against the last locally and by progression over the wor as the stock is so given oli'.

5. Apparatus for making footwear, said apparatus comprising means for supportingl ay last, gripper means relatively movable alongl the face of the last and. adapted to `give off stock under tension to the last, and a roller adapted to be moved along with sali lgripper means to press the stock against the last, the last supporting means and the gripper means being mounted for relative movement such as to4 bring the last and stock to-` gether by determinate movement from determinate, isolated positions.

6. Apparatus for applying a heel piece to a last, said apparatus comprising means adapted to receive and hold the heel piece .in a determinate position, means adapted to receive and hold a last in determinate position isolated from that of the heel piece, and means for effecting such relative movement of the two as to cause the heel piece first to contact the last at the middle line of the latters heel portion and then to be applied to the last progressively in opposite directions from said middle line.

7. Apparatus tor applying a heel piece to a last, said apparatus comprising` means adapted to receive and hold the heel piece in a determinate position, means adapted to receive and hold a last in determinate position isolated from that of the heel piece, means 'lor effecting; such relative movement of the two as to cause the heel piece first to contact the last at the middle line ot" the latter"s heel portion and then to be applied to the last progressively in opposite directions trom said middle line, and roller means adapted to run, upon the shank portion of the heel piece, toward the cone of the last.

8. Apparatus for applying a heel piece to a last, said apparatus comprising means adapted to receive and hold the heel piece in a determinate position, means adapted to receive and hold a last in. determinate position isolated from that of the heel piece, means ,tor elfecting such relative movement et' the two as to cause the heel piece first to contact the last at the middle line ot the latters heel portion and then to be applied to the last progressively in opposite directions from said middle line, and means for folding inward the sole margin of the heel piece, toward the sole face of the last.

ll. Apparatus tor making footwear, said apparatus cominising` a pair ot holding devices adapted to anchor the ends oit a piece oit shoe stock. to hold the same in position to receive a last, and to be moved toward the last as the latter passes between them, to apply the d portions ol' the piece to the l and press them thereagainst, and means 'tor relatively so moving the last and holding devices as to cause the piece thus to be applied thereto by said holding devices.-

it). irppa atus 'for making footwear, said apparatus comprising a pair of holding devices adapted to anchor the ends ot a heel piece to hold the same in position to receive a last, and to apply the end. portions ot' the heel piece to the last, means 'tor relatively so naiving the last as to cause the heel piece thus to be applied thereto by said holding means and for holding the last in a determinate position at the end of such heel-pieceapplying movement, means 'l'or folding inward the isole margin ot the heel piece while the last is held in such determinate position and driving means common to all oit the atoresaiifl means and adapted to eti'ect their operation in timed relation.

il. Apparatus for making tootwear, said apparatus comprising a pair ot holding devices adaptedl to anchor the endsI ot a heel piece to hold the same in position to receive a last` and to apply the end portions of the heel piece to the last, means for relatively so moving the last as to cause the heel piece thus to be applied thereto by said holding means and tor holdingl the last in a determinate position at the end olf such heel-piecea'iplying n'n'nf'ement, means Yi'or folding inward the sole margin olf the heel piece while the last is held in such determinate position, and additional means tor pressing the folded i Vlgin against the last.

lf2. Apparatus tor making footwear, said apparatus comprising a pair ot holding devices adapted to anchor the ends ot a heel piece to hold the same in position to receive a last. and to apply the end portions ol the heel piece to the last, means tor relatively so moving` the last as to cause the heel piece thus to he applied thereto by said holding means and tor holding the last in a determinate position at the end et such heel-piece applying movement, means tor folding inward the sole margin ot the heel piece while the last is heli'L in such determinate position, additional means for pr ssing the folded margin against the last, and driving means common to all oit the ailoresaid means and adapted to eliect their operation in timed relation.

i3. vApparatus for making` footwear, said apiioratus comprising a toe-support adapted to straddle the toe end of a last from the lill) `front of the toe oit the last, means adapted yieldingly to engage the cone oil the last to hold it against said toe support, and means lor presenting and api'ilying a piece ol shoe stock to the last while .it is so held.

l-l. Apparatus for making ,l"o )t\\eai, said apparatus eonun'ising a pair ot stock-holding devices spared apart to permit the passage olE a last between them and adapted to anchor the end portions ol" a heel piece to receive a last, last-holdingv means vomin'ising a toeiaippori and means engagingv the cone olf the last lor holding it against said toe-support, and means Yfor relatively so moving' said lastholding means as to cause the heel portion ot' the last to engage 'the heel piece and lien the latter into con'lorinity with said heel portion o'l the last.

l5. rugpai'atus Alior making Vfootwear, said apparatus comprising a pair of stock-holding devices spaced apart to permit the passage olf a last between them and adapted to anchor opposite margins ol a piece ol shoe stock and to be moved toward each other to apply the stock progressively to a last moved between them, means for relatively so moving a last between them as to cause it to engage the piece olf stock and 'liex the latter into conformity with the last, and yielding means adapted to urge said stock-holding devices away from rich other during an early part of the lasts movement between them and to urge them toward each other in a .later part of said movenient.

lo. Apparatus as delined in claim 'l5 in which each of the stock liolding devices adapted to give oli' the stock lo the last and progressively to press it against the last as it is so given oli".

17. i-Lpparatus lor making tootni'ear, said apparatus comprising a pair of stock-holding devices spaced apart to permit the passage olf a last between them and adapted to anchor` opposite margins of a piece oil shoe stock and to be moved toward each other to apply the stock progressively 'to a last moved between them, means for relatively so moving a last between them as to cause it lo engage the piece ot' sterk and flex the latter into conformity with the last, yielding means adapted to urge said stock-hohiling devices away -from each other in an early part of the lasts movement between them and to urge them toward each other in a later part oil said movement, and positive means 'for positioning said stock-holding devices to receive the piece ot' shoe stock.

i8. Apparatus for mal-ting footwear, said apparatus comprising a movable last-earlier adapted to support a last with the sole 'lace thereol' substantially parallel with the line of movement of the last-carrier and with its cone supported bv said carrier against Ytorce directed normally against the sole face of the last, means for holding` a piece ot' upper shoe or movement ot' the last-carrier and with its cone supported by said carrier against force directed normally against the sole lace of the last, means or applying stock to the last and folding the sole margin ol the stock inwardly toward the sole 'face et the last while the latter is supported by said lastirrier, and power-actuated plunger means for pressing stock against the sole tace el the last while the latter is so supported.

20. Apparatus 'for making footwear, said f' apparatus comprising a pivoted arm, yielding in aans urging said arm about its pivot, a stop tor said arm opposing said yielding means', a iexible roller device ol lol-formation supported by its ends on said arm, and means for presenting a last to said rollerdevice in such position and from such direction as to cause the roller-device to embrace the last and to roll thereon against the force or said yielding means.

2l. Apparatus for making footwear, said apparatus comprising a pivoted arm, yieldinsr means urging said arm about its pivot, a stop :tor said arm opposing said yielding means, a flexible roller device of itl-formation supported by its ends on said arm, and means lor presenting a last to said rollerdevice in such position and trom such direction as to cause the roller-device to embrace the heel portion ol the last and to roll thereon toward the shank o'l the last, against the force of said yielding means.

ilrpparatus for applying a heel-piece to a last, said apparat-us comprising means lor first applying the heel piece to the last at the middle line ot the latter-s heel portion, means for pressing the end port-ions olf the heel piece against the last, progressively toward the toe of the last, and means jfor pressing lthe shank portion of the heel piece against the last, progressively toward the thank ol" the last.

Apparat-us for making footwear, said apparat-us comprising a member adapted to support the middle portion of a heel piece, means ilor yieldingly holding a last with the middle part of its heel portion pressing the heel piece against said member, and means for pressing the heel piece against the last fessively in three directions from the ,n held between said member and the last.

Q4. Apparatus for making footwear, said apparatus comprising a device for gripping a margin of a piece of shoe stock, a lastitil? lll) support, lostlmotion means for moving one of the same with relation to the other to apply to a last on said last-support, a piece of shoe stock held by said gripping device, and means actuated by the take-up of the lost motion of said lost motion means for actuating said gripping device.

25. Apparatus for making footwear, said apparatus comprising a device for gripping a margin of a piece of shoe stock, a lastsupport, lost-motion means for moving one of the same with relation to the other to apply to a last on said last-support, a piece of shoe stock held by said gripping device, and means actuated by the take-up of the lost motion of said lost motion means for positioning said gripping device with relation to said last-support.

'26. Apparatus for building footwear, said apparauts comprising a pair of gripping devices adapted to anchor opposite margins of a piece of shoe-stock, a stock-support for the intermediate portion of said piece, a last-support` adapted to carry a last into association with the piece of stock as the latter is held by said gripping devices, lostmotion means for moving said last-support, and means actuated by the take-up of the lost motion of said lost-motion means for closing said gripping devices on the stock and withdrawing said stock-support from said piece in timed relation.

27. Apparatus for making footwear, said apparatus comprising a last support for holding a last with an upper shoe part thereon having a margin projecting past the sole face 0f the last, a roller, and means for passing said roller from a side face onto the sole face of the last to fold said projecting margin onto said sole face, said means comprising a roller-support relatively movable to carry the roller past the junction of the side face and the sole face of the last, and a single spring adapted to urge said roller against the work both before and after it passes said junction in such movement.

28. Apparatus for making footwear, said apparatus comprising a last-support for holding a last in determinate position with an upper shoe part thereon having a margin projecting past its sole face, a set of rollers spaced about a portion of the sole face of the last, and means for closing in said set of rollers against the side faces of the last and rolling them from the side faces' onto the sole face of the last to fold inward the projecting margin of the shoe part, said means being adapted to actuate and to withdraw the rollers, leaving the sole face of the last unobstructed, while the last remains 'in said determinate position.

29. In combination with apparatus as defined in claim 28, a plunger device for pressing the -folded margin of the shoe part against the sole face of the last while the last remains in said determinate position.

30. Apparatus for making footwear, said apparatus comprising a last-support for holding a last in determinate position with an upper shoe part thereon having a margin projecting past its sole face, a set of rollers spaced about a portion of the sole face of the last, and means for closing in said set of rollers against the side faces of the last and rolling them from the side faces onto the sole face of the last to fold inward the projectingmargin of the shoe part, said means comprising a set of supporting inembers spaced about the last and adapted to be closed in toward the latter by movement substantially parallel with the sole face of the last, a journal arm for each roller, each journal arm being pivoted on its supporting member at a point opposite the side face of the last and extending from its pivot toward the sole face of the last, and yielding means urging each arm about its pivot toward the last.

In witness whereof I have hereunto setmy hand this 4th day of September, 1924.

FRANK J. MACDONALD. 

